Errors in the Caldercraft kit
What the kit supplies, what it should have been according to the drawings and Anatomy of the Ship, and how it was solved.
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| Part | What the kit supplies | What it should be | Fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bulkheads and stern frames Seen myself # | A plan on which bulkhead 15 does not touch the planking line and part 27 cannot fit once bulkhead 17 is bevelled. | Stern frames that run flush with the last bulkhead. | Adapted the stern frames to the bulkhead, did not follow the plan. Forum post |
| First planking Seen myself # | Two whole strips short for the first planking. | Enough strips for both sides. | Made two new strips from four offcuts. Forum post |
| Bow bulwark Seen myself # | The manual calls for 1.5x5 mm lime at the bulwark and 1.5x6 mm for the first planking, both under number 276; the box only contains 1.5x6 mm. | 1.5x6 mm lime (276, 70 strips): the 1.5x5 is a misprint in the text, nothing is missing. | Used 1.5x6 mm; fine for the low bow bulwark. Forum post |
| Counter planking Seen myself # | The manual gives neither the height of the counter planking nor the size of the helm port. | Dimensions in the manual. | Followed the profile of the keel, consulted an earlier post by pietsan. Forum post |
| Wale Seen myself # | One 1 mm strip and otherwise 0.7 mm strips; black strake 0.5 mm. | Black strake half as thick as the wale strips, so 1 mm strips. | Painted the black strake slightly thinned to keep the difference visible. Forum post |
| Wale Seen myself # | Manual: black strake plus six 3x1 mm strips. | Black strake plus five strips; wale height on the profile view 18 mm. | Fitted five strips. Forum post |
| Quarter galleries Seen myself # | Two identical left-hand decoration sets. | One left-hand and one right-hand set. | A right-hand set was sent on and arrived on 22 December 2018. The left-hand and right-hand sets turned out not to be exactly the same size, so the two sides look slightly different. Forum post |
| Stern carvings Seen myself # | White-metal female figure with an arm that is too short (a straight stump). | Two mirror-image figures with complete arms. | Built the arm up with solder and filed to shape. Forum post |
| Keel Seen myself # | Keel 1 to 2 mm at its shallowest point. | About 6 mm deep at 1:64 scale. | Glued on a piece to about 6 mm, exactly one copper plate wide. Forum post |
| Rudder Seen myself # | Kit plan with a bottom edge of the rudder sloping upward. | Rudder in line with the keel. | Extended the rudder with a small triangle of the same thickness. Forum post |
| Channels Seen myself # | Plans on which the channels cannot be positioned to the millimetre; the manual has the channels fitted first. The strip 285 along the channel edge and the deadeye size per slot appear only on drawing 17. According to DaveBaxt the fore channel on the drawing also sits slightly too far forward, the other two are right (separate item in this register). | Mark the channels only after the mouldings. | Mouldings dry fit first, then mark the channels, cut out the moulding and glue it, then the channel. Forum post |
| Side steps Seen myself # | Steps half a centimetre longer than on the full-size plan. | Steps as per the plan. | Removed the rails and shifted the fenders to the right. Forum post |
| Sternpost mouldings Seen myself # | Laser-cut moulding piece along the sternpost too long; the manual assumes a closed stern. | Shortened moulding that meets the rail. | Shortened the moulding. Forum post |
| Catheads Seen myself # | A manual that has you build the cathead from strip wood as in drawing 20: five strips of 1 x 3 mm (280, the same strip as for the wales) with pieces of 0.5 x 3 mm (281) between them as the sheave slots, and a support 116 from 3 mm walnut. At the time I read that as five separate pieces and could not find them anywhere in the box; those strips had already gone into my wales. | Cathead 35 mm long, 30 mm outside the hull, with a pin (314) through the beam into the hull. The text calls the strip 277, the drawing and the parts list 280. | Made from 5 mm walnut; one piece looks better anyway. Forum post |
| Seats of ease, head Seen myself # | Manual: 4 mm dowel. | The hole in the grating is well over 5 mm. | Sawed discs of over 5 mm from 5 mm walnut, hole 2.8 mm. Forum post |
| Head Seen myself # | Only the right-hand decorative pieces and too little decorative strip. | Left- and right-hand decorative pieces and enough strip. | Replacement from Cornwall Model Boats. Forum post |
| Aft port lids Seen myself # | The lids of the stern chase ports appear on drawing 7 (hinges 256, lids from strip 277) but are absent from the manual text. The ship had a lead-lined hole and a ringbolt for the port lid rope at each lid (book D1/3, numbers 4 and 16); the kit simplifies that to two small holes. | Description of the lids and hinges. | Made them with a template; hinges on the lid with brass pieces. Forum post |
| Rope Seen myself # | Right-hand laid rope only. Anchor cable 378 is natural 2.5 mm, half a metre, bright white and right-hand laid; an anchor cable is cable-laid (left-handed). | Left-hand laid rope for the anchor cable (2.6 mm) and messenger (1.6 mm). | Ordered left-hand laid rope from modellbau-takelgarn.de. Pietsan tinted the kit cable with walnut stain, thinned 60 per cent. Forum post |
| Galley chimney Seen myself # | The Victory's chimney: casting 328 (Ships Stove Chimney) with etched plate 255 (Stove Chimney Baffle). | A square wooden type, as Diana had. | Still to be made; postponed until the upper deck is on. Forum post |
| Gun deck carriages Seen myself # | Ugly nails without a proper head. | Nails with a round head. | 6 mm brass nails from pietsan; kit nails reused as bolts and linchpins. Forum post |
| Gun deck guns Seen myself # | Guns without a ring at the breech for the breeching. | Breeching ring at the breech end of the barrel. | Rings wound from 0.7 mm wire and cut into half circles. Forum post |
| Tackles Seen myself # | Standard 5 mm hooks. | About 3 mm. | Futtock Strop hooks from Cornwall and photo-etched hooks from Germany; still a bit large. Forum post |
| Waist cleats Seen myself # | Cleats (114 and 115) that do not look like Piet's kevels, and bare holes in the hull where the real ship had sheaves for tacks and braces. | Kevels with a sheave and a diamond head; tacks and braces come inboard through a sheave in the ship's side (Anatomy of the Ship D1/3). | Fitted the kit cleats anyway; minor detail. The sheaves in the hull are still missing; that comes with the rigging. Forum post |
| Upper deck gratings Seen myself # | Manual: 2x2 mm coaming. | Gratings 1 to 2 mm high (6 to 12 cm); only gun deck gratings were sometimes 12 inches. | Made the gratings lower with a subtle camber. Forum post |
| Planksheer Seen myself # | According to the parts list two strips of flexible beech 2 x 5 mm (284), exactly for the planksheer of the waist and quarterdeck, and for the forecastle two laser-cut slotted walnut parts (93 and 94). At the time I only found walnut of 2 x 4 mm (282, the strips for the bitts) and took that for the planksheer strip. | Beech 2 x 5 mm (284) as per the manual (20.2); whether it was missing from my box or lying among the walnut, I no longer know. The walnut parts for the forecastle really do only reach as far as the curve. | Bought 5x2 mm beech strips, the same as 284, and bent them in a PVC pipe; with the open rail aft I needed more anyway. Forum post |
| Ladderway stanchions Seen myself # | Brass pins without any shape. | Turned stanchions. | Turned his own from walnut. Forum post |
| 9-pounder carriages Seen myself # | Carriages of veneered walnut, not crisp enough. | Crisp carriages with axletrees and pins. | Scratch-built in Castello boxwood. Forum post |
| Belfry Seen myself # | A belfry that 'made no sense at all'. | Belfry as in Anatomy of the Ship. | Scratch-built; version 2 smaller and turned a quarter turn. Forum post |
| Carronades Seen myself # | A white-metal blob instead of trucks. | Real trucks. | Trucks from brass tube (2.4 mm) on a 1 mm axle. Forum post |
| Hammock cranes Seen myself # | Hammock cranes so fragile that almost all are broken. | Sturdy cranes. | Made his own from 1 mm brass tube. Forum post |
| Kevels (kit: cavel cleats 114 and 115) Seen myself # | Kevels to which no rope can be tied. | Cleats with room for belaying a rope. | Modified so a rope can be tied to them. Forum post |
| Hammocks Seen myself # | Rope only, no netting. | Netting for the hammock cranes. | Used mesh from a kitchen fly screen. Pietsan still had netting in 2016 that turned out just too small on the starboard side; older boxes apparently did include some. Forum post |
| Stern frames Seen myself # | A section drawing on which the stern is drawn 'a bit in 3D', so you cannot tell whether stern frame 24 should sit square to the bulkhead. | Stern frame 24 square to the bulkhead, in line with the notch in the false keel. | Fitted it square; the stern frames immediately sat lower and fitted the bulkhead. Forum post |
| Build order Seen myself # | A manual that has the mouldings and planksheer fitted before the coppering, while the ship still has to go on its side and upside down for the copper; about varnishing and when to do it, the text says nothing. | Copper first, then the mouldings; varnish only after all the fittings, and only above the copper. | Reversed the order: copper first. Forum post |
| Channels and mouldings Seen myself # | A manual that, at the channels and mouldings, refers to parts that cannot be found: the mizzen channel is called 58 in the text, the strip along the channel edge (285) appears only on drawing 17, and the small backstay channel 142 has three different names (manual, parts list and book). | Mizzen channel 55 (58 is the quarter gallery rail, 1.5 mm walnut, sheet 44); strip 285 of 1.5 x 1.5 mm after fitting the deadeyes; 142 is the backstay stool. | Followed pietsan's build log. Forum post |
| Head grating and bumkins Seen myself # | A drawing (sheet 2) on which the bumkins run across the seats of ease; make the grating exactly to the drawing and the bumkins will not pass. | Bumkins in front of the seats (as on the box photo) or behind them (contemporary models), with the holes for the seats further towards the middle. | Made a third grating with the seats a little further towards the middle, cut out with a no. 11 hobby knife. Forum post |
| Head grating Seen myself # | A drawing of the grating without the two elongated holes in the middle through which the bowsprit gammoning must pass. | Two elongated holes in the middle of the grating; the gap between grating and bow is correct (it is on the drawing). | Made the holes while the grating was still loose. Forum post |
| Holes in the bulwark for tacks, sheets and braces Seen myself # | Sheet 1 draws plain 1.5 mm holes in the hull at parts 266 to 268 for the main brace, main sheet, fore sheet and spritsail sheet; the manual specifies 1 mm. On the real ship these were sheaves, and the cleats inboard belong with them. | Sheaves in the hull (book D1/3, page 64); at the very least 1.5 mm holes, because a 1 mm tack will not pass through 1 mm. | Still to do at the rigging stage: a blackened brass disc or a slot of two holes imitates the sheave; HMSFly fitted real sheaves. Forum post |
| Sweep ports Read in kit and book # | Sheet 1 puts the sweep ports at different heights; the manual says 4 x 4 mm. | On one line below the port sill; to scale about 3 mm, but 4 mm suits the kit ports, which are also larger than scale. | Keep to one line, 4 mm. |
| Ventilation scuttles and sweep ports Read in kit and book # | No quantities in the manual; the etched sheet supplies 20 hinges 248 and 20 hinges 249, far more than needed, and they are larger than scale. | Count them on sheet 1; hinge in the middle of the lid so it does not stick out. | Use the kit hinges, centred on the lid; DavidEN printed smaller ones. |
| Bumkins Read in kit and book # | The manual specifies 'black thread 0.5 mm (302)' and a pin of brass wire 316 in a 0.7 mm hole. | 302 is the 8 mm fiddle block; the 0.5 mm black thread is 382. 316 is 1 mm wire, so drill 1 mm or take thinner wire. | Still to do: take 382 and drill 1 mm. |
| Stern and quarter gallery decoration Read in kit and book # | The manual prints '374-356 & 358' as part numbers. | 347 to 356 and 358; 374 is 0.5 mm thread. | Worked out the numbers myself. |
| Boats Read in kit and book # | The parts list calls 195 (the floor of the 18 ft cutter) 'false keel'. | It is the floor (false deck), like 183, 207 and 224 on the other boats. | Use it as the floor. |
| Boats on deck Read in kit and book # | The manual nests the smallest boat in the largest (which would be the pinnace); on CNC sheet 49 the 18 ft cutter has no chocks of its own. | Sheet 2 nests the 18 ft cutter in the 24 ft cutter, in the middle; only then do all four fit in the waist. | Follow sheet 2. |
| Boats Read in kit and book # | Drawings 36 to 39 label the strip along the upper edge 278 (1 x 5 mm); at the gunwales the manual says 281 (0.5 x 3 mm). | 281; 3 mm is already 19 cm wide at 1:64. | Keep to 281, or cut 278 narrow. |
| Boat rudders Read in kit and book # | The manual asks for black card 370 for the hinges of the boat rudder; in the parts list 370 is 'Not In Use'. | Black card 295 (which also goes round the anchor stocks and lower masts), black paper or a strip of tape. | Use 295. |
| Mast caps Read in kit and book # | Sheet 3 puts number 48 on the cap of the mizzen mast and on that of the bowsprit; the parts list and CNC sheet 42 have one 48 (bowsprit mast cap, 5 mm). | Mizzen mast: 107 (3 mm); bowsprit: 48 (5 mm). | Count the caps in the box; if one is missing, make it to sheet 3 from 5 mm walnut. |
| Bowsprit fairlead (170) Read in kit and book # | Manual: ten 0.7 mm holes in 1.5 mm ply; sheet 3: '1 mm holes'; parts list: 1.5 mm walnut. | 0.7 mm (0.25 mm thread goes through it; 1 mm weakens the plate); the plate on CNC sheet 45 is 1.5 mm walnut ply. | Drill 0.7 mm. |
| Jib boom saddles Read in kit and book # | The manual calls both saddles 137; on sheet 3, 287 points to the saddle under the heel and 137 to the cleat next to it. Parts list: 137 bowsprit cleats (2, 2 mm walnut), 287 jibboom saddle (1). | Two pieces 137 and one 287; the three pieces from CNC sheet 47 fit on sheet 3. | Fit them on sheet 3. |
| Lower mast bibs Read in kit and book # | At the foremast the manual calls the bibs '61 & 63'. | 62; 61 is the mainmast, 63 the mizzen. | Take 62. |
| Top bolsters Read in kit and book # | The manual says bolsters from 2 mm strip (283). | In the parts list 283 is the 4 x 4 mm strip, and that is how drawing 25 draws the bolster too: a 4 x 4 block filed half round. | Take 4 x 4 mm. |
| Topmast fid Read in kit and book # | The manual calls the fid '(283)', the 4 x 4 mm strip. | 286 (2 x 2 mm) according to sheet 3 and the parts list. | Take 286. |
| Topgallant mast Read in kit and book # | Sheet 3: '1mm hole for fid-316'; manual: 0.7 mm hole with 0.7 mm wire. | 0.7 mm; a 1 mm hole in a 3 mm heel leaves little wood. | Drill 0.7 mm. |
| Studding sail boom irons Read in kit and book # | For the yards the manual lists castings '332-336 & 338'. | Only 332 to 336; 337 and 338 are the iron and the end cap of the studding sail boom on the channel and do not belong on a yard. | Leave 338 for the channel. |
| Pendants of tackles Read in kit and book # | Manual: 1.25 mm natural (379); sheet 4: letter A, 1 mm black (380). | 1 mm black; on the ship the pendants were tarred and served and slightly thinner than the shrouds. | Take 380. |
| Shroud cleats Read in kit and book # | The manual lists 28 cleats (foremast 16, mizzen 8, mainmast 4); the note at Stage four on sheet 5 also asks for a cleat on the first topmast shroud of each topmast for the topgallant lifts, six that appear nowhere in the text. The box has 32 castings 330. | 34 cleats. | Make two extra or leave two out; decide before the ratlines. |
| Boom guys, vangs and peak halliard Read in kit and book # | Boom guys and vangs: manual 5 mm blocks, drawing 29 numbers them 296 (3 mm single). Peak halliard: manual a 3 mm single block 60 mm from the end and a 0.25 mm halliard; sheet 3 draws L (5 mm) there at 50 mm and sheet 5 gives the halliard letter G (0.5 mm). | Boom guys 5 mm (298) with 0.5 mm pendants; vangs 3 mm; peak halliard 3 mm block and 0.25 mm, because the gaff end is only 2.5 mm thick. | Choose per line and stick to it. |
| Main stay and fore stay Read in kit and book # | The manual specifies '1.8 thread (277)'; in the parts list 277 is a 1 x 4 mm walnut strip. | 377: natural 1.7 mm thread, 2 metres in the box (just enough for both stays), to be stained black; sheet 4 letter E. Rule of thumb: numbers in the 370 range are thread, a thread with a number below 300 is a misprint. | Take 377, do not make test pieces of that thickness. |
| Lanyard of the stays Read in kit and book # | Manual 34.4: natural 0.5 mm (374); drawing 28 numbers the lanyard 382 (black 0.5 mm). | Black or tanned: on the ship lanyards were dark. | Take 382. |
| Mizzen stay Read in kit and book # | Drawing 28 ('mizzen stay seizing') draws a 5 mm single block (298) on a strop round the mainmast; the manual and sheet 3 (letter T) say a 5 mm deadeye. The height differs too: text 'at the second iron band', sheet 3 a good deal higher. | 5 mm deadeye, at a height that stays clear of the crossjack yard. | Keep to the deadeye. |
| Fore topmast stay and preventer stay Read in kit and book # | The text says 'down to an eyebolt' and 'tied off'; sheet 4 draws a tackle of two blocks (L and J) with 0.25 mm and gives no thickness for the stay itself. | A tackle: you can tension it and the ship had one too; stay 1 mm, preventer stay no thicker. | Make a tackle. |
| Main topmast stay and preventer stay Read in kit and book # | The manual mentions a 4 mm block at the masthead; the kit only supplies 3, 5 and 7 mm and sheet 4 draws J (3 mm). Sheet 4 also makes the preventer stay (D, 1.25 mm) thicker than the stay (A, 1 mm), the reverse of the lower masts. | 3 mm block; 1 mm for both stays if you prefer the look. | Take 3 mm. |
| Royal stays and royal backstays Read in kit and book # | Sheet 4 gives the three royal stays letter F (natural 0.25 mm) while all other stays are black; the manual gives no thickness. There is no black 0.25 mm thread in the box. | Black, like the other stays. | Stain 0.25 mm yourself or take 0.5 mm black (382), the same for all three. |
| Backstays Read in kit and book # | The manual says 1 mm and 0.75 mm; sheet 4 puts D (1.25 mm stained), B (0.75 mm) and C (0.5 mm) at the backstays, each time one size different. | Follow the text; if you want the standing topmast backstays heavier as on the ship (book F2/1), take 1.25 mm (379) and stain it black. | Follow the text. |
| Brace blocks Read in kit and book # | Main topsail brace: manual 3 mm single, sheet 6 twice L (5 mm); the lower block on the main stay: 2 x 3 mm single against M (5 mm double); the block at the fore top: 2 x 3 mm single against K (3 mm double). | One or the other, consistently. | Choose what is in the box. |
| Anchors Read in kit and book # | The manual calls the anchor 33 (that is a 3 mm ply head frame); the parts list gives 8 stock halves 46 in 3 mm walnut, which appear on none of the CNC sheets 42 to 50. | The anchor is 331 (drawing 18); the eight stock halves with the recess are loose in the box. | Take 331, look for the stock halves loose. |
| Catharpins Read in kit and book # | The manual mentions the catharpins only in the text, not on drawing 27 and not on sheet 4, and puts them before the futtock shrouds while you can only tension them afterwards. | Four per mast, each separate and crossing straight over; tie them loosely and tension only after the futtock shrouds. | Reverse the order. |
| Manual text, rigging Read in kit and book # | A string of slips: 'mast' where the yard is meant (footropes), 'crosstack yard' for the crossjack, 'preventor stay', 'tressletree', '3nn' for 3 mm, '55m' for 55 mm, 'siezed' on sheet 4, 'pendantanad' at the vangs, 'round the mainmast' at all three masts (pendants of tackles), '379' without a closing bracket at the preventer stays, and the sentence about the 7 mm block on the bumkin that sits under 34.4 but belongs to 21.7. | Read past them; the sheets and the parts list give the intention. | Noted, no action. |
| Bowsprit and figurehead Reported by another builder # | Sheet 1 draws the bowsprit twice; the lower drawing gives too shallow an angle, so the bowsprit hits the figurehead. | The steeper angle of the upper drawing and of the book (F1/8, page 78); the bowsprit then clears the figure. | Fix the angle before the figure goes on, and dry fit the figure with the bowsprit in place. |
| Iron knees of the channels (258) Reported by another builder # | Drawing 17 and sheet 1 draw 13 knees per side; the box holds 11 per side. | 26 knees. | Put the 11 in the most visible places, or make two more from 0.5 mm brass strip. |
| Knees and eyebolts on the hull Reported by another builder # | Sheet 1 and drawing 17 mix up the knees (258) and the eyebolts (313); the manual gives neither a number nor a size for the eyebolts. | The knees sit under the channel, the eyebolts in the hull beside and below the channels. | Go over sheet 1 in two colours before drilling. |
| Chainplates (307, 308) Reported by another builder # | Etched chainplates with the soldered joint exactly where the pull of the shrouds comes; tension them too hard and the deadeye pulls out of the channel. | A chainplate that holds the pull of the shroud. | A drop of epoxy in the slot of the channel before tensioning; do not tension too hard. |
| Guns and gun port lids Reported by another builder # | Pietsan's box was two guns short; he therefore kept the aftmost gun port closed on both sides. | The full number of guns from the parts list. | Count the guns before you distribute the lids; report shortages to Cornwall Model Boats or Jotika. |
| Iron bands of the lower mast (295) Reported by another builder # | Sheet 3 puts the card bands round the 2 x 3 mm strip at the front (the filling) and over the cheeks as well. | Bands round the spar only, under the filling; the manual text says so explicitly and the box photo shows it. | Bands first, then cheeks and filling. |
| Top Reported by another builder # | Drawing 25 draws no opening in front of the mast for the sling of the fore yard, main yard and crossjack yard; the manual has two 1 mm holes drilled afterwards. | A slot, as on the real ship (book F4/6, page 92). For the kit rigging, which pins the yards and hangs them in thread, the two holes will do; if you want the sling over the masthead, make the slot before the top is fixed. The same goes for the holes for the jeers in cap and top. | Decide when building the top; HMSFly only found out after the top was fixed, pietsan drilled the two holes beforehand. |
| Crosstrees and trestletrees (127 to 133) Reported by another builder # | Laser-cut crosstrees from 2 mm walnut veneer that splits; pietsan's fore topgallant crosstrees arrived broken, Peterhudson's slots were too narrow and everything needed a lot of filing. | Whole crosstrees with slots that fit. | Check the sheet on receipt (Jotika sent pietsan new ones free of charge); drill the holes for the topmast shrouds by hand. |
| Blocks (296 to 304) Reported by another builder # | Blocks of 3, 5 and 7 mm whose holes are often blocked and which HMSFly and AllanKP69 found too coarse; what the kit calls a 'fiddle block' (302) is a compound block of two blocks on top of each other. | Blocks with open holes in the same sizes; a real fiddle block has one shell and two sheaves. | If you keep the kit blocks (pietsan did not complain): drill out all the holes in one go with 0.7 to 1 mm in the pin vice. HMSFly ordered elsewhere; his first replacement from Poland turned out to be hard card. |
| Studding sail boom irons (332 to 336) Reported by another builder # | Cast irons and rings that are far too thick for 1:64. | Fine irons: a 1 mm brass pin in a soft metal cap, inner iron with a ring of flat brass 2 x 0.2 mm. | Pietsan made his own; HMSFly used the kit irons. Choose what suits you. |
| Parrel of the topsail yard (beads 372, ribs 362) Reported by another builder # | 3 mm beads, irregular in shape. | Regular 2.5 mm beads. | Pietsan first hung the topsail yards in a rope parrel and replaced it with 'ribs and trucks' of 2.5 mm from the market. |
| Footropes (371) Reported by another builder # | Thread 371 that looks too thick at 1:64; the manual also says 'mast' twice where the yard is meant. | On the ship rope of just under 25 mm, so 0.4 mm to scale, 3 ft long (14 mm; the kit says 15 mm). | Pietsan: twisted 0.3 mm steel wire, blackened; HMSFly: etched brass footropes by Amati (14 mm). |
| Truss pendants and truss tackles of the lower yards Reported by another builder # | The manual text of 28.8 describes the truss tackle in two sentences, but none of the sheets or kit drawings show where the truss pendants go; no thickness, no part number, and 'double block with hook' while the hooks are elsewhere in the kit. | Truss pendant round yard and mast, double block, tackle to an eyebolt beside the mast, 0.25 mm fall on a cleat on the mast (book F4/6, page 92; Petersson page 36). | Rig to the book on the fore yard and main yard. |
| Shroud cleats (330) Reported by another builder # | Castings of about 9 mm on a 1.25 mm shroud. | On the ship a cleat was seven times the rope diameter long, so 5 mm fits better (AllanKP69). | Paulbo replaced them on his Caldercraft Victory (same fittings) with separate 5 mm cleats; Wil left them out and belayed to the pin rails. Decide before the ratlines. |
| Boom sheet and boom guys Reported by another builder # | Drawing 29 with blocks that do not match the book; the sheet to the mizzen mast bitts, the guys to a kevel on the quarterdeck bulwark. | Boom sheet as a tackle with a double block on the boom above the stern and a single block on an eyebolt in the deck, belayed to a cleat on the centreline of the quarterdeck; two guy pendants with tackles to the sides, belayed on the taffrail (book F4/5, page 91, belaying plan table 6 numbers 83 and 84). | HMSFly rigged both to the book; the kit version works too, as long as you do sheet and guys the same way. |
| Vangs Reported by another builder # | Drawing 29 draws two separate 0.5 mm pendants with a seizing round the gaff end, standing end on an eyebolt, through one block to a cleat; the cleat at the stern appears only on sheet 5. | According to Lees one line with a clove hitch round the gaff peak, a double block at each end, tackle to a single block on an eyebolt in the stern, hauling part on a cleat by the taffrail. | HMSFly did it Lees's way; the kit version is less work. |
| Mizzen topmast stay Reported by another builder # | The kit ties the mizzen topmast stay at the bottom to an eyebolt behind the main top; the block under the main top appears nowhere on the drawing. | Through a heavy single block under the main top down to the deck, to the foot of the mainmast, where a tackle secures it to the rings (book F2/1, number 9; Petersson page 16). | Fit the block (5 mm fits) when building the top; pietsan's version can also be tensioned. |
| Channels Reported by another builder # | On the kit drawing the fore channel sits slightly too far forward relative to the mast; the other two channels are right. | Fore channel where the book puts it, and so that the shrouds clear the upper gun ports. | Check the channel against the book before fixing it. |