Reference · How-tos · Bulkheads and hull

Fairing the bulkheads and checking with a fairing batten

Fair the bulkheads only once they are glued in, and keep checking with a batten across several bulkheads that the hull runs fair everywhere.

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1. 1Glue the bulkheads first, then fair

   Glue the bulkheads square into the keel former and let the glue dry before you start fairing. Fairing them loose, the so-called 'Piet method', seems handy on a large model, but the forum was almost unanimous that it should be the other way round: you can compare with the other bulkheads far better. Keep everything square with clamps or Lego bricks.

   

   Tip from Danny Mulders: Always glue the bulkheads into the keel first, even on large models. You can compare with the other bulkheads far better to see whether you are on track.

   Watch out: Eduard started by fairing loose and noticed the bulkheads still wobble while unglued; that throws things off. The foremost bulkhead also turned out not to be pushed all the way down when it was already stuck fast, and had to be cut loose with a thin utility knife blade.

2. 2Rough fairing with the file

   Start at the bow and file the outer edge of the bulkhead to a bevel, so that the hull planks will lie flat on the bulkhead later. Work in small steps: every few strokes of the file, check with a strip. Rather take off too little than too much; you can always touch it up.

   

   Tip from Pingu57: Don't take too much off now, because you don't know the exact curve yet. After gluing you only need to fine-tune.

   Watch out: One small bulkhead snapped off while filing and had to be glued again. So file with care at the thin parts.

3. 3Checking with the fairing batten

   Lay a thin strip across several bulkheads at once and press it against them. The batten must touch every bulkhead without bumps or hollows. If the batten shows a dip, too much has come off: glue an extra strip of the right thickness onto the bulkhead, then sand to shape and measure again.

   

   Tip from pietsan: The batten must touch the bulkheads everywhere without bumps or hollows. If your batten shows a dip, you need to glue some material on.

   Watch out: At the sternpost, bulkhead 14 came nowhere near the batten. Hans Groenenberg's solution: really press the batten against the bulkhead, that is how the hull gets its shape. The gap turned out not to be a mistake; there is a slight kink in the hull at that point.

4. 4Checking the curve with the deck

   Lay the loose deck on the bulkheads to look at the curve. If the deck overhangs the bulkheads slightly, that is no problem: a deck usually has a little extra, so that you can fit it to the faired bulkheads later. So only sand the deck to size once the bulkheads are fixed.

   

   Tip from *Hans*: A deck usually has a little extra, so that you can fit it to the faired bulkheads later.

5. 5Fair only the lower parts of the aftermost bulkheads

   On the aftermost bulkheads, fair only the lower parts, the section below the sharp curve. Leave the square part above it alone. Only measure with the batten once these bulkheads are fully faired; the gap at bulkhead 14 often turns out much smaller then. If you are still short of material after that, glue a strip on.

   Tip from pietsan: Don't fair the square part of the bulkheads, the section above the sharp curve. Only the lower parts. After that you will see the gap at bulkhead 15 is not so large any more.

6. 6Fair the stern frames together with the last bulkhead

   Fit stern frames 26 and 27 before you fair the lower edge of the last bulkhead (17), then fair them together so that the stern frames run on automatically with the bulkhead. If they stick out, adjust the stern frames to the bulkhead, not the other way round: raising the bulkhead changes the stern and the hollow counter under the transom may then not work out. When in doubt, show a dry fit on the forum first.

   

   Tip from pietsan: The idea is to fair the stern frames together with the bulkhead, so that they fit automatically. Raising the bulkhead afterwards is not really right.

   Watch out: Eduard first raised the aftermost bulkhead because the stern frames stuck out. That had to be undone again. Don't follow the drawing blindly either: on it, bulkhead 15 doesn't even touch the planking line.

7. 7Comparing port and starboard

   Compare both sides with contour gauges so that you can see exactly where they differ, and make the same curve on both sides. The ship must end up symmetrical; the gauges copy the profile from one side to the other.

   Tip from Pingu57: In any case try to get the ship symmetrical. The DIY shop sells gauges with which you can copy both sides exactly; I believe they are called laminate gauges.