Reference · How-tos · Decks

Deck planking plank by plank

Glue each plank separately and only cut the next one off the long strip once the previous one is fixed, so that the caulking seam runs on and the planks stay the same width.

The new method: the bottom rows have a continuous, thicker and more visible caulking seam than the rows above.
The new method: the bottom rows have a continuous, thicker and more visible caulking seam than the rows above.

What you need

Tools

  • hobby knife
  • PVA glue
  • oil-based pencil
  • sandpaper

materials and suppliers

  • 1 x 4 mm tanganyika strips, pre-sanded
Time
a weekend
Difficulty
moderate
When in the build
Phase 2,
From the log post
First half done and a better method · forum

Before you start

The margin plank and the first rows are down; the strips have been pre-sanded and the sides blackened. This guide improves on the method in 'Deck planking with caulking seam and four-butt shift'.

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  1. Look at the first half of the deck in raking light. Ours had inconsistent caulking seams, although all the sides were blackened equally, and there was unevenness in the deck. The cause: all the planks cut to length in advance, then everything glued and pressed hermetically tight. As a result the planks weren't always the same width and the caulking seam was practically squeezed away.

    Amidships around the hatches with the old method: the caulking seam is irregular.
    Amidships around the hatches with the old method: the caulking seam is irregular.
    Raking light shows the unevenness in the deck best.
    Raking light shows the unevenness in the deck best.

    Tip from pietsan: I avoid unevenness by sanding the strips before I fit them. Then they end up practically the same thickness and smooth, and the caulking seams more even.

    Watch out: Don't be too critical either: after sleeping on it Eduard was happy with the first half after all. Little of the gun deck will be visible later.

  2. Make one plank: sides blackened, cut to length, top face scraped. Glue it very carefully against the previous row, without pressing it hermetically tight. That way the caulking seam runs on exactly and becomes slightly thicker and more visible.

    The new rows along the hatch: the seam runs on and is the same thickness everywhere.
    The new rows along the hatch: the seam runs on and is the same thickness everywhere.

    Watch out: On the first half Eduard pressed everything hermetically tight. Then the caulking seam almost disappears.

  3. Only cut the next plank off the long strip that the previous plank came from once the previous one is in place. That way the planks are always the same width as their neighbour and the butt end always fits properly too.

    Filled in row by row from the long strip; the butt ends meet properly.
    Filled in row by row from the long strip; the butt ends meet properly.

  4. Compare the new rows with the old. The bottom rows in the photos are the new ones, the top rows the old. The difference in the caulking seam is immediately visible. Finish the second half this way.

    Old and new rows side by side at the bow.
    Old and new rows side by side at the bow.

Result

With this method the caulking seam is even and visible and the planks are the same width everywhere. We will do the upper deck this way from the start; it takes a little longer per plank but saves sanding afterwards.

The gun deck at the end of the weekend: the new rows at the bottom, the old ones above.
The gun deck at the end of the weekend: the new rows at the bottom, the old ones above.

In the same series: Decks

  1. Pre-sanding deck strips with 320 grit
  2. Making the margin plank and joggling the deck planks
  3. Deck planking with caulking seam and four-butt shift
  4. Deck planking plank by plank
  5. Planking the upper deck off the ship with thread as caulking seam

All how-tos · Deck planking: margin plank, joggling and caulking seams